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I heard many acclaims about “Pri Lojzetu”. Therefore I decided to stop there on my way home from Italian Veneto. I reserved a table via email. The reply came immediately. As it often goes on trips, our plan did not quite work out and so we were “a little” late. I better called them to inform them about our late arrival. On the other side of the line, they ensured us it was no problem.
The restaurant is located in a manor house in a little settlement Zemono, near village Vipara. Since we were two hours late, I expected signs of reprehension or unwelcoming greeting. What we got was quite the opposite. Tomaž Kavčič the owner and chef with his wife Flavina offered us a welcome glass of sparkling wine and ensured us they had no problem with our later arrival. Then they took us to our table. The restaurant was totally full. We wouldn’t get a table without reservation. Our attention was attracted by stone walls, antique furniture and fresh flowers in the interior of the restaurant. Despite the semi-darkness the restaurant looked hospitable. Tables were set nicely and seating was comfortable. After we were seated we got a glass of white wine and they offered us menu. We were a group of six people and the chef offered us uniformed tasting menu. We agreed also that they will choose a wine for us with every course.

Tomaž Kavčič belongs to the most important figures of Slovene gourmet scene. He is well known for his playful and creative approach in creating and serving food. His goal is to satisfy all senses of his customers. In a little while he managed to satisfy our senses. While waiting for the first course we got home-made bread. It was November and the menu was autumn oriented and made of seasonal ingredients. The first course was visually and gustatory very interesting. Thinly cut baked bacon and smooth slices of dehydrated mustard hang on a wire between two vine poles. Gentle sauce served in a cup completed autumn tastes perfectly. The presentation made sense, since we were in a wine region.
The second course was served in a covered cognac glass. The meal itself was covered in a smoke, so we couldn’t see it at first. The waiter advised us to uncover it after he told us something about the dish. In the glass was a slice of salmon that was being smoked during serving by a vine smoke. After we opened it, smoke disappeared and after we tasted it we reached a gourmet heaven. I was guessing that the chef will be serving us better and better meals. The second course made me fell to my knees in awe. The cook placed pieces of fresh raw herring on a stone covered in a gross sea salt and preheated to some hundred degrees. The fish was being cooked during preparation. Then waiter headed with it to our table.

He pointed out that the stone was hot and placed it on the table. The fish was fresh, tender and juicy. Fantastic!
I was still amazed by the previous course when the next one came. It was home-made pasta (of course) with slices of dried beet root and soft game gravy. The past had texture like pasta from my mommy and the sauce and beet root added a sparkle of modern gastronomy. Perfect connection of old and new world.
I was hoping that it was time for desserts. Not that I was not enjoying the food, but I was full. Desserts were not coming yet. Fifth course followed. It was served on a piece of shale decorated with leaves. It consisted of porcini carpaccio covered by a slice of lardello and an egg filled with fresh truffle. My dears, this is a perfect harmony of tastes, visual percepts, smells and senses. When I closed my eyes and smelled the food I thought I was in a forest. When I opened my eyes I found a little forest on my plate.
Another visual experience came along with the sorbet. Sommelier brought a container with leaves that he placed in the middle of the table. With a comment that it use to be foggy during autumn he poured some liquid in it. Thick fog was coming out of the container. It covered the whole table and reached down to the floor. After sorbet a dessert was served. It was a combination of five sorts of vegetables and seven sorts of fruits and a vanilla ice-cream. It was very unusual, refreshing, light and colorful combination. I never ate anything like that before. Tomaž, hats off to you!
Along with coffee and little desserts came the second part of performance. On our table was falling something like a snow, accompanied by a comment that after autumn comes winter.
Regarding the selection of wine, I appreciated that we were served wines from local winemakers made mostly from autochthonous strains. I was pleased with white wines from Zidarič, Simčič and Čotar. I was also enthusiastic about sparkling wine Penina Zelena from a local winemaker Vipava 1894 made of autochthonous strain Zelen.
While waiting for the bill we were guessing how much it will be. But we were pleasantly surprised. I don’t remember an exact number but it was approximately 60 Euros per person.

My rating:

The author does not visit rated restaurants at the invitation, but chooses them himself. Impressions and evaluation are based on single one visit. All expenses are covered by the author.

Text and photos: Dodi Fodor